During high school, when I owned my first Midget (a 1965 model), I lived in south Florida and rarely put up the convertible top (hood). Remember, this was a Mk. II Midget...the top was in the trunk along with the two halves of the top bows. When it rained I'd duck under a shelter and wait it out, or, if I were on the road, I'd just go faster...you'd be surprised at how little water you get on you at speed! Most of the time I had the tonneau installed. If I were alone I'd drive with it in 3/4 position, passenger side and rear compartment covered. It was a quick and easy task to zip and snap the driver side when I parked. When I bought my driver I decided I'd do the same. While my first Midget came with the tonneau already fitted, the '66 did not, so I decided to install one myself. What follows is a photo essay of the process; maybe there's something here that you can use.

     After thinking through the process I considered the few basic hand tools it would take to do the job, a tape measure and straight edge for lining up the tonneau, a piece of chalk for marking the fixtures, tape (masking and duct), an awl for starter holes, and two punches (a 1/8" and a 1/4"). I've seen the leather working rotary type punch but couldn't justify the price of one (even if I could locate one) for this one small job...so I decided to make my own. I considered small tubing, maybe cut from a telescoping radio antenna, but settled on another idea. I went to the local builders supply and in the plumbing section found two pipe fittings that are made for flexible tubing. They are brass; one end is threaded and maybe 1/2" in diameter. It then steps down to the "barb" end that is ridged and on one fitting 1/8" inside diameter, and on the other 1/4" inside. The whole fitting is about 2" in length. The big end would be just right for smacking with a hammer, the other (barb) end just right for punching the hole...if it were sharp. You could chuck the big end in a drill/drill press, assuming you have a big enough one, and use a file or emery cloth to grind the wall to a sharp edge. I happen to have a "hobbyist" metal lathe with a three and four jaw chuck that worked great. I mounted up the big end in the chuck, set the (variable) speed pretty low, and adjusted the cutting tool to 45 degrees of the fitting centerline. The brass fitting machines nicely and the resulting edge was sharp. Did both a 1/8" and a 1/4". I tried them out with some scrap naugahide (from farm raised naugas) and they worked like a charm. 

     Fitting the new tonneau took about three hours, including the time for the photos, not including the time for painting the bows. The process was simple and fairly easy. I've never done this before; nothing magic about it, but you do get a bit queasy when you take that razor knife to the first cut (for the cleat hook on the back edge). I think it came out pretty good...a few minor wrinkles behind the short side zippers, but with the offset surfaces there that's inevitable. I've seen worse...that people had paid for. I probably over did the stretching...got the banged up hands and broken nails to prove it. It had been mid 90s all week and 78 the morning I started working on it...Murphy's Law of Tonneau Installation. I measured and then placed my windshield lift-the-dot snaps 3/8" closer to the rear cleat bar than the measurement so the tonneau would have to be stretched into place. I found it easier to snap the windshield end and then "lever" the bar end until it hooked. The side snaps were much easier.
 
When I finished up I took a ride with the tonneau in the 3/4 covered position (passenger side covered, driver side open)...Max (my dog) didn't like it...he had to stay home. At 50 with a strong breeze I didn't get any flopping and nothing came loose...I'm happy. The paint on the bows dried overnight; the next day I put it in the 1/2 position (covering the rear compartment, over the bow, and down behind the seats)...Max liked that...I owed him a ride.
 

E-mail Ray at ray@raysmg.com about MG interests you may share.