Ray's engine is officially done; Ray came up today, we put the final touches on it, and it went home with him today.

Here's a little run down of what comprises this engine:

• MG 1275

• Bored .040 AE21253 hi comp. pistons

• 9.7 to 1 compression ratio

• Ported and polished cylinder head w. new valves, AE valve springs, hardened exhaust seats. three angle valve job

• Harland sharp roller rocker 1.3 arms w/ solid spacers

• APT VP276 nitrited slot drive camshaft

• APT CF-04 chilled iron lifters

• Rollmaster vernier timing gear set

• ARP rod bolts, head stud kit, and flywheel bolts

• Connecting rods resized, and balanced

• STD/STD EN16T crank balanced

• King tri metal bearings

• AE full circle cam bearings

• Payen gaskets used thru out

• Romac Harmonic balancer

• APT oversized aluminum water pump pulley

• Rivergate 5 speed back plate w/ rear engine seal

• Fidanza aluminum flywheel

• Alloy valve cover

• Winner Circle racing oil pan

• 1-2-3 electronic distributor

• Acme Speed Shop HS2 carbs

• Winner Circle LCB race headers

• Winner Circle AN oil line adapter and fittings

• Gear reduction starter

A closer look at the Harland Sharp roller rocker arms... I ended up having to elongate the pushrod holes in the head to get pushrod clearance. We used stock type pushrods and I was pleased with the valve geometry. Basically what you're doing with 1.3 HS roller rockers using stock rocker arm pedestals is putting a 1.3 to 1 rocker arm on a 1.25 to 1 pedestal, and this throws the geometry off a bit. That is why I had to elongate the pushrod holes in the head. This is the first time I have done this exact set up, and it was a PITA. Knowing what I know now I could do it lot easier and quicker than it took me the first time around. Anyone doing this on their own that doesn't do this kind of work often, caution, this is not for the faint of heart, and for dang sure not to be done to an engine without pulling the head. So when you guys see those HS rocker arms being sold on Ebay for just under $300, realize, you still need to buy new Cooper S adjustment hardware, solid spacers, and a lot of labor to make it happen, including fitting the rocker arms to a new shaft. I had to re-tap all the threads for the adjustments, and you must use a larger alloy valve cover for clearance. So, it's not a walk in the park, do-able yes, easy, no.

A closer look at mod made to to #1 and # 8 rocker arms to clear the alloy valve cover.

All loaded up in Rays truck headed home to Georgia.

Go to "Epilog" page

E-mail Ray at ray@raysmg.com about MG interests you may share.