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September 2007 |
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Monday, Sept. 3
was Labor Day. Since I retired most holidays are just like other days...I
just do what I feel like doing, and that usually means working on a car.
Having just completed most of the rough bodywork on the rear portion of
the car, and while waiting for the spring boxes to be delivered so I could
start on the front half, I decided to do something fun...a frenched
in license tag. I expected this little project to take several days, but
instead completed the rough-in in just one...so, now that it's done, it's
back to the heavy-duty bodywork. |
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First step was to determine the size, based on the tag frame, and notch out the corners and drill the four tag mounting holes.
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The long sides were broke on the 36" metal brake and the short side on my bench vise.
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The completed box is 1/4" larger, on both axis, than the tag frame.
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90 degree welding magnets held the sides in alignment so they could be tacked.
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The seams were then welded solid...
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and finally ground smooth.
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The center of the rear valence was found, the box dimensions transferred...
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and the cutout made.
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The box was fit and held in place with the magnets so the valance cut lines could be marked.
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The box sides were cut to match the compound curves of the valance.
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3/4" strips of 16 gauge steel, same as what the box was mde from, were welded around the hole for strength.
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Then the box was welded in and the welds ground flat.
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Very little space lost in the boot. A few more selds will be made here on the back side.
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A little filler and paint and it will look like it's always been there.
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From the side view, there will be no change in the rear profile of the car due a protruding tag, in keeping with the "smooth" look.
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Before moving on to the front body half I needed to complete one more small job...
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adding in the curved fender well piece of the trunk floor (previously cut away) and a strip to brace it.
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That completed, I'll roll the back half out of the way for now...
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and begin work on the front half.
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Having received the spring boxes from Moss, the bulkhead will be the first item of business.
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Before starting the bulkhead work, a trip to the store for some bolts, nuts, and washers.
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I layed out some of the main components on the floor to get an idea of how it all goes together.
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Then I moved it all to the bench for a bolt together mockup.
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The outer corners of the spring boxes had to be cut...
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to clear the floor reinforcements...
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as was done on the original parts.
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Then the reinforcement braces could be bolted on and their location marked.
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Uh oh...I received two right hand radius arm brackets instead of a right and a left...time for a quick phone call to Moss.
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Next step was to get the remainder of the sills and the rear portion of the floor pan out so I could trial fit the bulkhead.
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Must have been 5 lbs. of Bondo in the sills.
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Out came the remaining floor pan.
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I could now test fit the bulkhead...
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and it looks OK.
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Trial fitting the floor pan assured that everything was lining up.
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The lower hinge plate on the "A" pillar was completely rusted out, so the entire pillar will be replaced.
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Here the square cross member is being cleaned up. It will be used to locate and tack the sill, then replaced with a new one.
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Front and back halves of the bulkhead drilled...
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and primer removed for welding.
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Bolting up the radius arm bracket to the bulkhead half and spring box...
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held everything in place until it could be clamped...
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and welded. The welds were then ground flat...
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and the bulkhead primed.
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Before moving forward, a wood brace was attached to the transmission tunnel to prevent damage...
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it also makes moving easier and provides a more stable work piece.
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The remainder of the floorpan was removed from the passenger side frame rail...
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fortunately, the rail only had minor surface rust.
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The passenger side foot pan had rust and minor collision damage...
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it was removed.
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Here is what lurks inside many nice paint jobs.
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A section of the flange on the frame rail will need to be replaced.
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The fabricated foot pan welded in place...
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and the floor pan clamped on to check fitment.
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Checking the fit from inside.
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The foot pan is actually double walled with a triangular profile.
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This is how new joins old; some smoothing and filling will be done before painting.
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Checking the fitment once again...you can't be too careful.
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The cross member had rust through and was replaced...
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with a new member.
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Care was taken to get measurements and alignment perfect.
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Then a series of checks...
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with the floor pan clamped in place.
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The floor pan will go in soon...but not yet!
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There was a gap between the front panel of the bulkhead and the tunnel...
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two pieces of 16 gauge steel closed it.
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The joint will be smoothed and a little filler added.
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One section of the rail flange had rusted and was reapaired.
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The floor pan was tack welded into place along with the rear bulkhead.
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The floor pan was then tacked to the cross member.
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I've never liked the jack hole in the sill...
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so I cut a plug out of 16 gauge sheet and shaped it...
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I cleaned out the hole...
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and did a test fit.
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I used a large welding magnet to hold it in the proper place...
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welded it in and then ground the weld smooth.
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Here you can see the weld penetration from the back side.
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The completed sill is composed of an inner sill, outer sill, and...
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front and rear caps. They were all welded up to complete the passenger side sill.
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The front frame was raised on blocks and leveled.
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Same thing at the rear bulkhead.
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The completed sill was clamped into place and leveled.
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The "A" pillar was set in place to help locate the sill.
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The footwell side panel was checked for fit.
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Time to see how we're doing. The rear clip was located above the rear bulkhead...
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and lowered into place...bulkhead between the doglegs.
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Perfect! Measurements were taken and confirmed against door width and witness marks scribed.
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Looks good. Time to move the rear clip out of the way and get back to work on the front.
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The sill in proper placement and tacked.
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Good fit with the fabricated bulkhead brace.
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The footwell side panel was tack welded in place.
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Ready for final placement and tacking of the "A" pillar.
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October 2007 |
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The "A" pillar and tapping plates were tacked and the fitting checked...
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the pillar skin was chcked for fit...
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and finally the door swung and checked for fit.
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The pillar skin was trimmed...
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and welded in.
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Primer will keep the pillar...
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and skin from rusting until I begin finish work.
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Now, it's time to take what I learned and move on to the driver's side.
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Lots of rust to cut out...just like before.
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A new section of foot well front pan will again be fabricated.
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In the old pan, sand and dirt had accumulated to a depth of 2".
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The "A" pillar was cut out.
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Cleaned up and ready to start assembly.
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The new cross member is tacked into place...
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care was taken to get it level and true on both axis.
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Finish welded and the weld ground smooth.
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The driver's side floor pan was clamped in to check fit.
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Looks good, ready to move on to fabrication.
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The front footwell pan is cut out of 16 gauge steel...
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and tacked into place.
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Next the front face and triangular side are cut, fitted, and tacked.
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The new work is primed.
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Driver's side and passenger side beginning to look alike.
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Two brace plates are cut to cover the rusted frame members around the triangular cutout in front of the footwell.
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The driver's side plate welded in and primed...
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and the passenger side as well.
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The floor pans are lining up nicely.
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The four componetns of to driver's side sill were prepped and welded up.
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The driver's side floor pan was fitted, marked, preped, and tacked.
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Everything lined up nicely.
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The driver's side sill was clamped, leveled, and tacked into place.
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The "A" pillar was test fitted and the position marked. The footwell side panel was trimmed and tacked into place.
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Final installation of the "A" pillar will have to wait as the repro part was missing a gusset; a replacement is on order.
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It's Starting to look like a car again...well, half of one at least.
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Part labels were ground off...
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then all the new work was primed.
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It won't be long until the back and front come back together...but first, a couple weeks off.
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Before moving forward I once again confirmed the fit/location of the rear fender.
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I added an angular brace of 16 guage steel to the "B" pillar and outer sill.
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I temporarily attached the stiker for checking door fit.
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I've tired of waiting for a replacement "A" pillar for the drivers's side; it lacks the triangular gusset seen here on the passenger's side.
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I laid out the gusset on some sheet stock....
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cut and drilled it...
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and bent it to shape.
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Here it is installed on the "A" pillar tapping plate.
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I used a laser level to verify alignment of the sills to the rear clip.
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I fabricated another brace for the "B" pillar on the driver's side...
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to match the one I had installed previously on the passenger's side.
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The "B" pillar tacked in place for measurements.
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The "A" pillar with fabricated gussed was installed and the skin added.
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Both doors were hung...
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and adjustments made.
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An angle was added for strength over the reear bulkhead flange and boot floor.
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Doors removed, braces reinstalled, and the car ready for installation back on the rotisserie.
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